Random Puff 4D Vestis Plumaria ab Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin

Opus Random Puff 4D Vestis Plumaria a designatore Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin est victor maxime honoratus praemii praestigiosissimi 2023 Praemium A' Design Award Ferreum in Categoria Certaminis Textile.

FerrumTextile· 2023

Random Puff 4D Vestis Plumaria

a Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin

Cliens: MIT Media Lab

Victor praemii Praemium A' Design Award Ferreum in Categoria Textile

41,675

Victor Praemii Verificatus

Verifica Statum Praemii pro #145286

Visita Situm Vide apud A' Design Award Communicatum Insigne Praemii

Colores

Designum

De Random Puff 4D Vestis Plumaria

RandomPuffus est novus puffior qui utitur 4D plumario inflat pro vestis velit. Inflatus initio plana fabricantur et pop sursum in tholis calori exponuntur. Reducitur laqueos inflat aere inter ambitum exteriorem et velatos ad custodiendum corpus calidum. Explicatio involvit creationem bibliothecae 4D inclusarum materialium interventuum inter "fibras activas" et "fibras staticas". Designatores et tincidunt instrumentorum computationale consilio uti possunt ad collaborative cum fine usoribus operandi, novis textilibus et softbonis consiliis creando, quae summus tech modus est, personale et sustineri potest.

Agnitio

De Praemium A' Design Award Ferreum

Random Puff 4D Vestis Plumaria victor est Praemii A' Design Award Ferreum, honoris amplissimi formis bonis dati, quae postulatis professionalibus et industrialibus ab creationibus bene formatis exspectatis satisfaciunt. Victores Ferrei magnam peritiam, altam specializationem, intellectum periti et facultatem creandi auctorum suorum ostendunt. Exspectatur Random Puff 4D Vestis Plumaria creationem multum aestimatam, admiratam et carissimam, practicam et novam fore. Haec forma Ferreo victa optimas industriae consuetudines integrat et proprietates technicas idoneas, cum scientia et talento coniunctas, habet. Random Puff 4D Vestis Plumaria ob diligentiam suam honoratur et ad vitae qualitatem emendandam formatum est, ut mundum meliorem reddere iuvet.

Post Designum

Fasciculus Nuntii

Merita, sodales gregis et singula technica a designatore praebita.

Proprietates Singulares: Random Puff is a garment application leveraging the puffy transformation that traps air within the dome pocket to keep the body warm. The double curvature geometry becomes easily fabricated, and personalizable styling is available through the computational design process, which opens up a new design/manufacturing space for a puffy garment.
Dimensiones et Involucrum: 500mm x 30mm x 700mm. However, since it's a garment, it can be fold into the size of 300mm x 20mm x 200mm.
Notulae: 4D embroidery
Technologia Productionis: Heat-shrink thread. Neoprene. Machine embroidery. Processing visualizer.
Provocatio Designandi: First, the force balance between active thread and static fabric is a fundamental challenge. There is too much fabric out there with labeled information that does not necessarily lead to our purpose. Second, tension issues happen when new threads or fabric are introduced to the machine. It takes a while to calibrate, and sometimes break the machine if the thread is too thick/thin, or the fabric is too thick/slippery/crispy. Third, to achieve the maximized bi-layer bending, we want to vary the force on both sides so that the inner side does not constraint the outer side.
Investigatio: Research background:
This research demonstrates how machine embroidery with heat-shrinking fibers enables existing fabrics to be augmented with morphing fibers.

Methods/Tools:
Similar to sewing, embroidery is a technique of interlacing upper and bottom threads with the substrate in between, but digitally. For the hardware, a desktop, hobbyist embroidery machine can easily execute wanted samples. For the software, I mainly explored PEmbroidery and Inkstitch for different purposes. PEmbroider is an open-source library housed in Processing that offers a procedural coding environment to generate detailed embroidered files at point and line levels. Inkstitch is also an open-source plug-in embedded in Inkscape that provides a graphical user interface, which is more friendly for primary users.

Results/Insight:
I started off the material characterization by testing different substrates with the same embroidery parameters. Out of 10+ fabrics, fabrics that are lightweight with high springness can hold the morphed structure better. A series of embroidery parameters were also tested systematically with stroke width, density, peak-to-peak distance, stitch spacing, and threading material. The fiber actuator can be tuned from crease(low res) to bend(high res) in a linear pattern. The fiber can be arranged in curves, origami creases, or arbitrary shapes to form more complex pop-up geometry.
Inspiratio: Working at a NIKE shoe industry, I realized the challenge of transformation between 3D to 2D or vice versa. There's still no clear solution for the tedious, laborious, wasteful process from prototyping to production.

Working as a R&D at a carbon fiber company, I got to witness the power of machine embroidery, where it can digitally place fibers. This way, it can reinforce the artifact in any direction, replace the lamination thus reducing the material waste, and digitalize the process from start to end.
Duratio Operis: The project started in September 2021 and finished in December 2021 in Cambridge, MA, United States.
Cursus Operationis: First, a closed-curve set of circles, squares, or other arbitrary shapes is generated within the area of a 2D clothing. Second, the design file will be translated to an embroidery file via Processing, a visual output, and procedural coding environment. Third, upload the file to a desktop hobbyist embroidery machine and start embroidery. Lastly, the garment comes out flat from the machine and users can customize where to activate the puffs by heating the embroidery pattern with a steamer or iron.
Membra Turmae: Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin
Skylar Tibbits
Jack Forman
Hiroshi Ishii
Agnitiones Imaginum: All IP, copyright, images, video credits belong to Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin.