Tong Tong ᱨᱮᱱᱟᱜ Reinterpretation Of Changshan लुगुड़ी ᱫᱚ ᱯᱷᱮᱥᱚᱱ, ᱞᱤᱡᱟᱹ ᱟᱨ ᱵᱟᱥᱚᱱ ᱰᱤᱡᱟᱭᱤᱱ ᱯᱨᱚᱛᱤᱡᱚᱜᱤᱛᱟ ᱵᱷᱟᱜ ᱨᱮ 2024 A' Design Award ᱠᱟᱥᱟ ᱯᱩᱨᱚᱥᱠᱟᱨ ᱨᱮᱱᱟᱜ ᱟᱹᱰᱤ ᱢᱟᱱ ᱟᱠᱟᱱ ᱡᱤᱛᱠᱟᱨ ᱠᱟᱱᱟ᱾
ᱠᱟᱥᱟᱯᱷᱮᱥᱚᱱ· 2024
Reinterpretation Of Changshan लुगुड़ी
Tong Tong ᱞᱮᱠᱟᱛᱮ
ᱯᱷᱮᱥᱚᱱ ᱵᱷᱟᱜ ᱨᱮ A' Design Award ᱠᱟᱥᱟ ᱯᱩᱨᱚᱥᱠᱟᱨ ᱡᱤᱛᱠᱟᱨ
ᱡᱟᱸᱪ ᱟᱠᱟᱱ ᱮᱣᱟᱨᱰ ᱡᱤᱛᱠᱟᱨ
#159036 ᱞᱟᱜᱤᱫ ᱮᱣᱟᱨᱰ ᱦᱟᱞᱚᱛ ᱡᱟᱸᱪᱰᱤᱡᱟᱭᱤᱱ
Reinterpretation Of Changshan लुगुड़ी ᱵᱟᱵᱚᱛ ᱛᱮ
नेआ डिज़ाइन चीन देश-रेन् मानाञ होड़-को परमपरागत लुगुड़ी चांगशान-रेन् बे-हिसाब सुकुत् बाहेर-आक् जोहार एम कन आ। ओना-रेन् सुन्दर बाहेर आरजी केते नेआ नावा बाहार पुरखा हउआ आर नावा अकान-को मिसाल रुपर् आक्-केद-आ। सिध जोड़ आर लुकाव् पाकेत्-को लगाव् कामी चलाव बाढ़ती होन् लेकाते सुकुत् बाहेर रुखियज् आक्-आ। गुटि चिकना मेरोम त्विल सुतुम होते बाहार लेकाते ओकोय मजबुत् आर कुचुल् बाङ देखाव् एम् जोगा आक्-आ। सावधान सिलाइ ञाम कत्एत् लेकाते गल्ता ओड़ाक्-को नावाते बाहार एमेन् कठिन काम पुरा एना आर गुटि बाकेर् आर मजबुत् बाहेर नित् सित् राखाय आक्-आ।
ᱢᱟᱱᱟᱱ
A' Design Award ᱠᱟᱥᱟ ᱯᱩᱨᱚᱥᱠᱟᱨ ᱵᱟᱵᱚᱛ ᱛᱮ
Reinterpretation Of Changshan लुगुड़ी ᱫᱚ A' Design Award ᱠᱟᱥᱟ ᱯᱩᱨᱚᱥᱠᱟᱨ ᱧᱟᱢ ᱟᱠᱟᱱᱟ, ᱱᱚᱶᱟ ᱫᱚ ᱱᱟᱣᱟ ᱵᱷᱟᱵᱱᱟ ᱛᱮ ᱵᱷᱟᱞᱟᱭ ᱰᱤᱡᱟᱭᱤᱱ ᱠᱚ ᱞᱟᱹᱜᱤᱫ ᱮᱢ ᱟᱠᱟᱱ ᱥᱚᱢᱟᱱ ᱠᱟᱱᱟ᱾ ᱱᱚᱶᱟ ᱠᱚ ᱫᱚ ᱰᱤᱡᱟᱭᱤᱱᱟᱨ ᱠᱚ ᱨᱮᱭᱟᱜ ᱵᱷᱟᱵᱱᱟ ᱟᱨ ᱵᱷᱟᱞᱟᱭ ᱠᱟᱢᱤ ᱡᱷᱟᱞᱠᱟᱣ ᱠᱚ᱾ Reinterpretation Of Changshan लुगुड़ी ᱫᱚ ᱠᱚᱞᱟ, ᱣᱤᱜᱭᱟᱱ, ᱰᱤᱡᱟᱭᱤᱱ ᱟᱨ ᱴᱮᱠᱱᱚᱞᱚᱡᱤ ᱨᱮᱭᱟᱜ ᱥᱤᱢᱟ ᱵᱟᱲᱦᱟᱣ ᱟᱨ ᱫᱩᱱᱤᱭᱟ ᱵᱷᱟᱞᱟᱭ ᱞᱟᱹᱜᱤᱫ ᱜᱚᱲᱚ ᱮᱢ ᱠᱟᱱᱟ᱾
ᱰᱤᱡᱟᱭᱤᱱ ᱯᱤᱪᱷᱟ ᱨᱮ
ᱯᱨᱮᱥ ᱠᱤᱴ
ᱰᱤᱡᱟᱭᱤᱱᱟᱨ ᱧᱮᱞ ᱠᱷᱚᱱ ᱠᱨᱮᱰᱤᱴ, ᱴᱤᱢ ᱥᱫᱚᱥᱭ ᱟᱨ ᱴᱮᱠᱱᱤᱠᱮᱞ ᱵᱤᱵᱚᱨᱚᱬ ᱮᱢ ᱟᱠᱟᱱᱟ᱾
- ᱟᱞᱜᱟ ᱜᱩᱱ ᱠᱚ
- While striving to preserve its overall minimal and elongated silhouette, I endeavor to innovate this historical wardrobe classic through various tailoring methods, achieving a design that harmonizes tradition with modernity. Vertical seams were introduced to control volume, seamlessly blending the original stand collar into one piece with the body panels and discreetly incorporating in-seam pockets. Instead of the traditional side slash, inverted pleats were added to the side seams to enhance mobility while maintaining a modest appearance. Additionally, compared to the original, the overlapping front opening was shortened more towards the center with a slightly slanted curve for easier access.
- ᱢᱟᱯ ᱟᱨ ᱯᱮᱠᱮᱡᱤᱝ
- Full-body Length
- ᱴᱮᱜ ᱠᱚ
- Fashion, Clothing Design, Cultural Heritage, Chinese Traditional Culture, Tailoring
- ᱛᱮᱭᱟᱨ ᱛᱮᱠᱱᱚᱞᱚᱡᱤ
- A high-twist wool twill for this project was chosen due to its springy nature. It creates an ideal structural support for the garment, as well as a wrinkle-free character which contributes to the smooth and minimal image of traditional Changshan.
- ᱰᱤᱡᱟᱭᱱ ᱪᱮᱞᱮᱧ
- The primary challenge in realizing this design lay in the neck area. With the traditional neckline replaced by a series of vertical seams from the body panels, achieving the correct collar shape proved difficult initially. To address this, multiple trial iterations were conducted to refine the patterns for utmost accuracy. Following fabric cutting, the neck area underwent molding under steam and iron to create the smooth curve of the collar. Additionally, hymo was pad-stitched to provide sufficient structural support for the garment.
- ᱜᱚᱵᱮᱥᱚᱱᱟ
- Extensive historical and visual research was conducted to facilitate the creation of this design. To gain a deeper understanding of the historical context and the original design of the Changshan, historical photographs and documentaries were reviewed via digital databases, such as the BIFT Museum.
- ᱯᱨᱮᱨᱚᱱᱟ
- This design draws inspiration from the iconic Changshan, a traditional Chinese menswear garment.With its lean yet elegant silhouette, the Changshan was a wardrobe staple for men during the Republic of China era(1912-1949). Its floor-sweeping body, dolman sleeves, Mandarin collar, and overlapping front opening made it a symbol of social status and literacy.
- ᱯᱨᱚᱡᱮᱠᱴ ᱥᱚᱢᱚᱭ
- This Garment was designed in December 2021 and finished in the beginning of January 2022 in Chicago.
- ᱠᱟᱹᱢᱤ ᱦᱚᱨ
- The garment is designed to be worn as a coat.
- ᱴᱤᱢ ᱥᱮᱫᱟᱭ ᱠᱚ
- Tong Tong
- ᱪᱤᱛᱟᱹᱨ ᱥᱟᱹᱦᱟ
- Image #1-5 Photographer：Yuxian He, 2023
Image #1-5 Model: Junxian Ouyang, 2023
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ᱥᱟᱹᱜᱟᱹᱭ ᱰᱤᱡᱟᱭᱤᱱ ᱠᱚ
ᱢᱤᱫ ᱞᱮᱠᱟ ᱠᱮᱴᱮᱜᱚᱨᱤ ᱠᱷᱚᱱ ᱟᱨᱦᱚᱸ ᱯᱩᱨᱥᱠᱟᱨ ᱧᱟᱢᱟᱠᱟᱱ ᱰᱤᱡᱟᱭᱤᱱ ᱠᱚ ᱧᱮᱞ ᱢᱮ, ᱡᱚᱜᱭᱟᱛᱟ ᱧᱮᱞ ᱛᱮ ᱵᱟᱪᱷᱟᱣ ᱟᱠᱟᱱᱟ᱾
