Random Puff Oblačilo S 4D Vezenjem – avtor Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin

Delo Random Puff Oblačilo S 4D Vezenjem avtorja Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin je izjemno cenjeni dobitnik prestižne nagrade 2023 Železna nagrada A' Design Award v tekmovalni kategoriji Oblikovanje tekstila, tkanin, tekstur, vzorcev in blaga.

ŽeleznaTekstil· 2023

Random Puff Oblačilo S 4D Vezenjem

avtor/ica: Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin

Naročnik: MIT Media Lab

Dobitnik nagrade Železna nagrada A' Design Award v kategoriji Tekstil

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Preverite status nagrade za #145286

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Barve

Dizajn

O dizajnu Random Puff Oblačilo S 4D Vezenjem

RandomPuff je nov napihovalnik, ki uporablja 4D vezenine za izolacijo oblačil. Napihnjenci so sprva izdelani ravno in se dvignejo v kupole, ko so izpostavljeni vročini. Aktivirani vpihi ujamejo zrak med zunanjim okoljem in uporabnikom, da ohranjajo telo toplo. Razvoj vključuje ustvarjanje knjižnice 4D interakcij materiala za vezenje med 'aktivnimi vlakni' in 'statičnimi tkaninami'. Oblikovalci in razvijalci lahko uporabljajo računalniška oblikovalska orodja za sodelovanje s končnimi uporabniki in ustvarjajo nove tekstilne in mehke modele, ki so visokotehnološki, prilagojeni in trajnostni.

Priznanje

O nagradi Železna nagrada A' Design Award

Random Puff Oblačilo S 4D Vezenjem je prejemnik Železne nagrade A' Design Award, prestižnega priznanja, ki se podeljuje dobrim oblikovanjem, ki izpolnjujejo profesionalne in industrijske zahteve, pričakovane od dobro zasnovanih stvaritev. Prejemniki Železne nagrade kažejo veliko spretnost, visoko specializacijo, strokovno razumevanje in ustvarjalne zmožnosti svojih ustvarjalcev. Od Random Puff Oblačilo S 4D Vezenjem se pričakuje, da bo visoko cenjena, občudovana in ljubljena stvaritev, ki je praktična in inovativna. To oblikovanje, nagrajeno z Železno nagrado A' Design Award, vključuje najboljše prakse panoge in ima kompetentne tehnične lastnosti, povezane s strokovnim znanjem in talentom. Zaradi svoje temeljitosti si Random Puff Oblačilo S 4D Vezenjem zasluži spoštovanje in je zasnovan tako, da zagotavlja izboljšave kakovosti življenja, ki pomagajo narediti svet boljši kraj.

V ozadju dizajna

Komplet za medije

Zasluge, člani ekipe in tehnične podrobnosti, ki jih je posredoval oblikovalec.

Edinstvene lastnosti: Random Puff is a garment application leveraging the puffy transformation that traps air within the dome pocket to keep the body warm. The double curvature geometry becomes easily fabricated, and personalizable styling is available through the computational design process, which opens up a new design/manufacturing space for a puffy garment.
Dimenzije in embalaža: 500mm x 30mm x 700mm. However, since it's a garment, it can be fold into the size of 300mm x 20mm x 200mm.
Oznake: 4D embroidery
Proizvodna tehnologija: Heat-shrink thread. Neoprene. Machine embroidery. Processing visualizer.
Oblikovalski izziv: First, the force balance between active thread and static fabric is a fundamental challenge. There is too much fabric out there with labeled information that does not necessarily lead to our purpose. Second, tension issues happen when new threads or fabric are introduced to the machine. It takes a while to calibrate, and sometimes break the machine if the thread is too thick/thin, or the fabric is too thick/slippery/crispy. Third, to achieve the maximized bi-layer bending, we want to vary the force on both sides so that the inner side does not constraint the outer side.
Raziskave: Research background:
This research demonstrates how machine embroidery with heat-shrinking fibers enables existing fabrics to be augmented with morphing fibers.

Methods/Tools:
Similar to sewing, embroidery is a technique of interlacing upper and bottom threads with the substrate in between, but digitally. For the hardware, a desktop, hobbyist embroidery machine can easily execute wanted samples. For the software, I mainly explored PEmbroidery and Inkstitch for different purposes. PEmbroider is an open-source library housed in Processing that offers a procedural coding environment to generate detailed embroidered files at point and line levels. Inkstitch is also an open-source plug-in embedded in Inkscape that provides a graphical user interface, which is more friendly for primary users.

Results/Insight:
I started off the material characterization by testing different substrates with the same embroidery parameters. Out of 10+ fabrics, fabrics that are lightweight with high springness can hold the morphed structure better. A series of embroidery parameters were also tested systematically with stroke width, density, peak-to-peak distance, stitch spacing, and threading material. The fiber actuator can be tuned from crease(low res) to bend(high res) in a linear pattern. The fiber can be arranged in curves, origami creases, or arbitrary shapes to form more complex pop-up geometry.
Inspiracija: Working at a NIKE shoe industry, I realized the challenge of transformation between 3D to 2D or vice versa. There's still no clear solution for the tedious, laborious, wasteful process from prototyping to production.

Working as a R&D at a carbon fiber company, I got to witness the power of machine embroidery, where it can digitally place fibers. This way, it can reinforce the artifact in any direction, replace the lamination thus reducing the material waste, and digitalize the process from start to end.
Trajanje projekta: The project started in September 2021 and finished in December 2021 in Cambridge, MA, United States.
Potek delovanja: First, a closed-curve set of circles, squares, or other arbitrary shapes is generated within the area of a 2D clothing. Second, the design file will be translated to an embroidery file via Processing, a visual output, and procedural coding environment. Third, upload the file to a desktop hobbyist embroidery machine and start embroidery. Lastly, the garment comes out flat from the machine and users can customize where to activate the puffs by heating the embroidery pattern with a steamer or iron.
Člani ekipe: Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin
Skylar Tibbits
Jack Forman
Hiroshi Ishii
Zasluge za slike: All IP, copyright, images, video credits belong to Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin.