Random Puff Aṣọ Ọṣọ 4D láti ọwọ́ Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin

Random Puff Aṣọ Ọṣọ 4D láti ọwọ́ Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin jẹ́ aṣẹ́gun olókìkí púpọ̀ ti 2023 Àmì-ẹ̀yẹ Irin A' Design Award nínú Ẹ̀ka Ìdíje Àpẹẹrẹ Aṣọ, Ọ̀gbọ̀, Àwọ̀, Àpẹẹrẹ àti Ẹ̀wù.

IrinAṣọ· 2023

Random Puff Aṣọ Ọṣọ 4D

látọ̀wọ́ Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin

Oníbàárà: MIT Media Lab

Aṣẹ́gun Àmì-ẹ̀yẹ Irin A' Design Award nínú Ẹ̀ka Aṣọ

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Aṣẹ́gun Àmì Ẹ̀yẹ Tí a Jẹ́rìísí

Jẹ́rìísí Ipò Àmì Ẹ̀yẹ fún #145286

Ṣàbẹ̀wò Ojú Òpó Wo ní A' Design Award Ìwé Ìròyìn Àmì Ẹ̀yẹ

Àwọ̀

Àpẹrẹ Náà

Nípa Random Puff Aṣọ Ọṣọ 4D

RandomPuff jẹ puffer aramada ti o nlo awọn puffs iṣelọpọ 4D fun idabobo aṣọ. Puffs ti wa ni ipilẹ alapin ati gbe jade sinu awọn ile nigbati o farahan si ooru. Awọn mimu ti a mu ṣiṣẹ ṣe idẹkùn afẹfẹ laarin agbegbe ita ati ẹniti o wọ lati jẹ ki ara gbona. Idagbasoke naa jẹ pẹlu ṣiṣẹda ile-ikawe kan ti awọn ibaraenisepo ohun elo iṣẹṣọọṣọ 4D laarin 'awọn okun ti nṣiṣe lọwọ' ati 'awọn aṣọ aimi'. Awọn apẹẹrẹ ati awọn olupilẹṣẹ le lo awọn irinṣẹ apẹrẹ iṣiro lati ṣiṣẹ ni ifọwọsowọpọ pẹlu awọn olumulo ipari, ṣiṣẹda asọ aramada ati awọn apẹrẹ softgood ti o jẹ aṣa imọ-ẹrọ giga, ti ara ẹni ati alagbero.

Ìdánimọ̀ Náà

Nípa Àmì-ẹ̀yẹ Irin A' Design Award

Random Puff Aṣọ Ọṣọ 4D jẹ́ olùborí Àmì-ẹ̀yẹ Irin A' Design Award, ìdánimọ̀ olókìkí tí a fún àwọn àwòṣe tó dára tí wọ́n pàdé àwọn ohun tí iṣẹ́ àti ilé-iṣẹ́ nílò tí a retí láti ọ̀dọ̀ àwọn ẹ̀dá tí a ṣàwòṣe dáradára. Àwọn olùborí Irin ń fi ìjáfáfá ńlá, ìmọ̀ pàtó gíga, òye ògbóǹtarìgì àti agbára ìṣẹ̀dá àwọn olùṣẹ̀dá wọn hàn. A retí pé Random Puff Aṣọ Ọṣọ 4D yóò jẹ́ ẹ̀dá tí a kà sí gidigidi, tí a gbóríyìn fún tí a sì nífẹ̀ẹ́, tó wúlò tó sì ní ìmúṣẹ̀dá tuntun. Àwòṣe tó borí Àmì-ẹ̀yẹ Irin A' Design Award yìí ń kó àwọn ọ̀nà tó dára jùlọ ilé-iṣẹ́ jọ, ó sì ní àwọn ànímọ́ ìmọ̀-ẹ̀rọ tó péye tí a so mọ́ ìmọ̀ ṣíṣe àti ẹ̀bùn. A bọ̀wọ̀ fún Random Puff Aṣọ Ọṣọ 4D nítorí ìfọ̀kànbalẹ̀ rẹ̀, a sì ṣàwòṣe rẹ̀ láti pèsè ìmúdára ìgbésí ayé tó ń ran ayé lọ́wọ́ láti di ibi tó dára jù.

Lẹ́yìn Àpẹrẹ Náà

Àkójọ Ìròyìn

Àwọn ẹ̀tọ́, àwọn ọmọ ẹgbẹ́ àti àlàyé ìmọ̀ ẹ̀rọ tí olùṣàpẹrẹ pèsè.

Àwọn Ohun Àkànṣe: Random Puff is a garment application leveraging the puffy transformation that traps air within the dome pocket to keep the body warm. The double curvature geometry becomes easily fabricated, and personalizable styling is available through the computational design process, which opens up a new design/manufacturing space for a puffy garment.
Ìwọ̀n àti Àpò: 500mm x 30mm x 700mm. However, since it's a garment, it can be fold into the size of 300mm x 20mm x 200mm.
Àwọn Àkọlé: 4D embroidery
Ìmọ̀-ẹ̀rọ Ìṣelọ́pọ̀: Heat-shrink thread. Neoprene. Machine embroidery. Processing visualizer.
Ìpèníjà Àpèsè: First, the force balance between active thread and static fabric is a fundamental challenge. There is too much fabric out there with labeled information that does not necessarily lead to our purpose. Second, tension issues happen when new threads or fabric are introduced to the machine. It takes a while to calibrate, and sometimes break the machine if the thread is too thick/thin, or the fabric is too thick/slippery/crispy. Third, to achieve the maximized bi-layer bending, we want to vary the force on both sides so that the inner side does not constraint the outer side.
Ìwádìí: Research background:
This research demonstrates how machine embroidery with heat-shrinking fibers enables existing fabrics to be augmented with morphing fibers.

Methods/Tools:
Similar to sewing, embroidery is a technique of interlacing upper and bottom threads with the substrate in between, but digitally. For the hardware, a desktop, hobbyist embroidery machine can easily execute wanted samples. For the software, I mainly explored PEmbroidery and Inkstitch for different purposes. PEmbroider is an open-source library housed in Processing that offers a procedural coding environment to generate detailed embroidered files at point and line levels. Inkstitch is also an open-source plug-in embedded in Inkscape that provides a graphical user interface, which is more friendly for primary users.

Results/Insight:
I started off the material characterization by testing different substrates with the same embroidery parameters. Out of 10+ fabrics, fabrics that are lightweight with high springness can hold the morphed structure better. A series of embroidery parameters were also tested systematically with stroke width, density, peak-to-peak distance, stitch spacing, and threading material. The fiber actuator can be tuned from crease(low res) to bend(high res) in a linear pattern. The fiber can be arranged in curves, origami creases, or arbitrary shapes to form more complex pop-up geometry.
Ìmísí: Working at a NIKE shoe industry, I realized the challenge of transformation between 3D to 2D or vice versa. There's still no clear solution for the tedious, laborious, wasteful process from prototyping to production.

Working as a R&D at a carbon fiber company, I got to witness the power of machine embroidery, where it can digitally place fibers. This way, it can reinforce the artifact in any direction, replace the lamination thus reducing the material waste, and digitalize the process from start to end.
Àkókò Iṣẹ́ Àkànṣe: The project started in September 2021 and finished in December 2021 in Cambridge, MA, United States.
Ìlànà Ìṣiṣẹ́: First, a closed-curve set of circles, squares, or other arbitrary shapes is generated within the area of a 2D clothing. Second, the design file will be translated to an embroidery file via Processing, a visual output, and procedural coding environment. Third, upload the file to a desktop hobbyist embroidery machine and start embroidery. Lastly, the garment comes out flat from the machine and users can customize where to activate the puffs by heating the embroidery pattern with a steamer or iron.
Àwọn Ọmọ Ẹgbẹ́: Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin
Skylar Tibbits
Jack Forman
Hiroshi Ishii
Ìfọwọ́sí Àwòrán: All IP, copyright, images, video credits belong to Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin.