Reinterpretation Of Changshan 'Ofu e Tong Tong

O le mamanu Reinterpretation Of Changshan 'Ofu e Tong Tong o se manumalo maualuga tele o le fa'ailoga mamalu 2024 A' Design Award Apamemea i le Vaega Tauva Mamanu Laei.

ApamemeaLaei· 2024

Reinterpretation Of Changshan 'Ofu

na mamanuina e Tong Tong

Manumalo o le A' Design Award Apamemea i le Vaega Laei

93,463

Manumalo Fa'ailoga Fa'amaonia

Fa'amaonia le Tulaga o le Fa'ailoga mo #159036

Va'ai i le A' Design Award Fa'asalalauga Pailesi o le Fa'ailoga

Lanu

Le Mamanu

E Uiga ia Reinterpretation Of Changshan 'Ofu

O le mamanu e fa'aaloalogia ai le matagofie e le gata o le Changshan, o se 'ofu fa'a-Saina masani mo tama e matua fa'aaloalogia. E fa'aalia lona tulaga matagofie, ma o lenei toe fa'auigaga e tu'ufa'atasi lelei le fa'asinomaga ma le fa'afouga. O suiga tu sa'o ma taga ua fa'apipi'i ma le fa'atonuga e fa'aleleia ai le aoga ae tumau pea le fa'atauva'a. Ua faia mai le fulufulu mamoe vili maualuga twill, e maua ai le lagolago fa'avae ma se foliga e leai ni mino'i. E ala i metotia sului fa'apitoa, ua manumalo ai le lu'itau o le toe fa'avasegaina o le ua o le 'ofu ae fa'amautu le lamolemole o pi'o ma le malosi o le fausaga.

Le Fa'ailogaina

E Uiga i le A' Design Award Apamemea

O le A' Design Award Apamemea na manumalo ai Reinterpretation Of Changshan 'Ofu, o se faamaoniga matuā mamalu e tuuina atu i mamanu ese e iloga i le fatufatuaʻi, le atamai ma le poto. O ē manumalo i le Apamemea o mea e iai le tomai atoa ma fatufatuaʻi mataʻina e faamaonia ai le poto masani tele, le mafaufau ma le atamai o tagata mamanu. E faamoemoeina Reinterpretation Of Changshan 'Ofu e avea ma mea e vivii tele, ua pelepelea, e iloga i le tomai faapolofesa ma mea fou. O lenei mamanu na manumalo i le A' Design Award Apamemea e tuufaatasia ai faiga sili i le faatufugaga, saienisi, mamanu ma tekonolosi ma e sili ona lelei i le mataituina o mea itiiti. Reinterpretation Of Changshan 'Ofu e faamalieina matagofie manaʻoga, pa i manaʻo, faalataina lagona ma faaosofia le fia iloa.

I Tua o le Mamanu

Pepa Fa'asalalau

Fa'amaoniaga, sui o le 'au ma fa'amatalaga fa'atekinisi na saunia e le tagata mamanu.

Uiga Fa'apitoa: While striving to preserve its overall minimal and elongated silhouette, I endeavor to innovate this historical wardrobe classic through various tailoring methods, achieving a design that harmonizes tradition with modernity. Vertical seams were introduced to control volume, seamlessly blending the original stand collar into one piece with the body panels and discreetly incorporating in-seam pockets. Instead of the traditional side slash, inverted pleats were added to the side seams to enhance mobility while maintaining a modest appearance. Additionally, compared to the original, the overlapping front opening was shortened more towards the center with a slightly slanted curve for easier access.
Fua & Fa'apipi'i: Full-body Length
Fa'ailoga: Fashion, Clothing Design, Cultural Heritage, Chinese Traditional Culture, Tailoring
Tekonolosi Gaosiga: A high-twist wool twill for this project was chosen due to its springy nature. It creates an ideal structural support for the garment, as well as a wrinkle-free character which contributes to the smooth and minimal image of traditional Changshan.
Lu'itau o le Mamanu: The primary challenge in realizing this design lay in the neck area. With the traditional neckline replaced by a series of vertical seams from the body panels, achieving the correct collar shape proved difficult initially. To address this, multiple trial iterations were conducted to refine the patterns for utmost accuracy. Following fabric cutting, the neck area underwent molding under steam and iron to create the smooth curve of the collar. Additionally, hymo was pad-stitched to provide sufficient structural support for the garment.
Su'esu'ega: Extensive historical and visual research was conducted to facilitate the creation of this design. To gain a deeper understanding of the historical context and the original design of the Changshan, historical photographs and documentaries were reviewed via digital databases, such as the BIFT Museum.
Fa'aosofia: This design draws inspiration from the iconic Changshan, a traditional Chinese menswear garment.With its lean yet elegant silhouette, the Changshan was a wardrobe staple for men during the Republic of China era(1912-1949). Its floor-sweeping body, dolman sleeves, Mandarin collar, and overlapping front opening made it a symbol of social status and literacy.
Umi o le Poloketi: This Garment was designed in December 2021 and finished in the beginning of January 2022 in Chicago.
Fa'agasologa o Galuega: The garment is designed to be worn as a coat.
Sui o le 'Au: Tong Tong
Fa'aaloaloga o Ata: Image #1-5 Photographer：Yuxian He, 2023
Image #1-5 Model: Junxian Ouyang, 2023